Neten Dorji

Pemagatshel—It is 8am. A mild morning in Khangma, Pemagatshel.

Thirty-three-year-old Malay Wangzin prepares her 10-year-old son for school, helping him get dressed, and packing his lunch. As her son hurries out of their traditional house, she settles at her loom, ready to continue weaving intricate patterns.

Malay Wangzin is among many women in Khangma who weave traditional garments for a living.

Located in the northern part of Pemagatshel dzongkhag, Khangma is an hour’s drive from the new Denchi town. Most women in Khangma, aged 16 to 50, engage in weaving the exquisite and prized Kushuthara textile, which has become integral to their livelihoods.

“I started weaving Kushuthara at 20,” Malay Wangzin said, who supports her son and relatives’ education through weaving Kushuthara. “Every woman in our village has a handloom, and it is the main source of income for almost every household,” she added.

Over the course of a year, she weaves five to six Kushutharas, which have seen a steep increase in price, from Nu 45,000 a few years back to Nu 85,000 today.

Another weaver, Sonam Peldon, who has been weaving since her childhood, said that she never thought that weaving would provide her with a steady income, enough to support her business and build a new house.

In Khangma, women are often the primary breadwinners.

Lhaden Dema, a mother of two, emphasises the importance of shifting mindsets. “Many still believe their survival depends on a husband. I want to continue weaving for as long as I can, so my children can complete their college education,” she said.

The weaving tradition is passed down through generations.  Girls learn to weave at a young age from their mothers. “Girls grow up watching their mothers weave from a young age, making it easier for them to learn intricate patterns,” Choeni Zangmo said.

While men generally do not weave, a few, including an elderly man and an eleven-year-old girl, have taken up the craft, and the community supports their efforts.

Interestingly, men in Khangma take pride in the success of the women’s weaving businesses, recognising that the income generated far exceeds what they could earn through traditional farming.

Sixty-seven-year-old Choedup collects their textiles to sell in other dzongkhags. “During Thimphu Domche and Paro Tshechu, I sell Kushuthara kiras,” he said.

Fortunately, market dynamics have improved. Many villagers now sell their textiles online, as customers can now place orders through text messages, phone calls, or social media platforms.

Passang Lhamo, a school dropout, has taken the lead in helping weavers market the Kushutharas on social media. She uploads the photos of the completed pieces on social media with the price tag. “In the past, we could only sell kiras during tshechu season, but today, thanks to social media, we can sell anytime,” she said.

However, weaving intricate Kushuthara patterns is no easy task. “It’s an arduous and lengthy process,” Sonam Peldon explains. “My eyes hurt, and my back aches, but I do it to support my children and repay our loan.”

Weavers said that the rising cost of silk threads in recent years has reduced their profits.

Yurung Gup Sangay Thinley said that the Kushuthara business is now the primary income source for Khangma, surpassing even agriculture.

“Almost 80 percent of household expenditures are covered by selling kushuthara., he said.

He added that most families have built new houses from the income from Kushuthara sales. “Compared to the past, poverty has drastically decreased and living standards have improved due to commercial weaving.”

It is little surprise that many homes in Khangma boast modern amenities like televisions, refrigerators, and washing machines.