Chencho Dema

Laya, Gasa—In the remote village of Laya in Gasa, 16-year-old Pema is on a mission to preserve a fading tradition. As the youngest weaver of conical hat called Zhamu, unique to the people of Laya, woven from bamboo, she is determined to keep alive the craft that is at risk of disappearing.

Pema is a Class IX student at Laya Central School, passionate about keeping her community’s cultural heritage alive.

With only two weavers of the iconic hat left in the village, Pema fears that this centuries-old craft could soon vanish, taking away with it a vital part of Laya’s identity. But thanks to the UPSHIFT programme, she is not alone in her efforts to preserve this age-old craft.

The “Revival of Highland Textiles and Souvenirs” initiative, led by four dedicated youth volunteers, has breathed new life into this ancient tradition. By training local youth and community members in traditional craft, the project aims to preserve the culture while fostering creativity and social responsibility among the younger generation.

Pema

Pema Lham, one of the four students involved in the initiative, is learning the intricate art of weaving from Aum Kaka, considered one of Laya’s finest weavers.

“I have been learning for over two weeks, practicing for more than two hours each day. For a beginner like me, it takes three days to complete one hat,” she said.

Pema, motivated by deep fear of losing her culture, expressed her gratitude for the opportunity: “I am glad I joined. Our culture cannot be allowed to disappear.”

In the past, the conical bamboo hat of Laya held deep significance, symbolising a woman’s status in the community. Wealthier women adorned their hats with strands of precious stones and pearls, while others used simpler beads. Today, the hats still serve as an important mark of cultural identity—every female Layap, aged four and above, wear this unique hat.

The hats are distinct, featuring a pointed spear at the top, with intricate beadwork in hues of white, red, orange, and blue. The beads vary in size, reflecting the skill of the weaver.

Traditionally, the hats were larger, believed to protect women from the elements, but today, the size is tailored to the individual’s head. Hat’s circumference usually differs from 5-8 inches.

Aum Kaka, 49, is one of the last remaining hat weavers in the village, alongside Dodo, 50s, who learned the craft of making the hat at the age of 25.

Both are worried about the future of the hat’s popularity.

“No one seems interested in learning how to make this hat, and I fear this craft might end with us,” said Aum Kaka, who learned the craft by watching her father do it.

The process is labour-intensive and time-consuming. While weaving the hats isn’t really difficult, it can take at least a full day to complete one and, sometimes, she has to work through the night to meet demand.

The demand for these hats is constant, especially during special occasions like the Laya Bonko and Aoley festivals, when Layap women wear them proudly.

Even students wear the hats as part of their school uniform. The students have to wear the Laya attire along with the hat every Thursday.

The price of each bamboo-made hat is Nu 1,000.

However, sourcing the materials has become a major challenge.

“Only the experienced weavers know how to identify the right bamboo,” said Aum Kaka. “Sometimes, we have to travel halfway towards to Lunana to collect them, and the fear of wild animals along the way makes it even more daunting.”

Aum Kaka and Dodo are hopeful for the future, thanks to the UPSHIFT programme, which is revitalising interest in the craft.

“We are confident that this tradition will survive for sometime, given the stress of preservation of our culture and tradition,” Dodo said.

Laya Gup Tshewang, who is also the Gasa Thrizin, said, “If there are no weavers or if people lose interest in the craft, it could disappear.”

Despite the challenges, the efforts to preserve the tradition are making an impact.

Through initiatives like UPSHIFT, and with the growing involvement of youth like Pema, the future of the conical hat in Laya might survive.