An influx of local visitors is boosting horse services, homestays, and Kishuthara sales

Neten Dorji

Lhuentse—Known for its sacred pilgrimage sites (nye) such as Singye Dzong, Rinchen Bumpa, Phuningla, Ney Khenpajong, and Sangwai Dadru, Lhuentse Dzongkhag is seeing a growing number of pilgrims visiting these spiritual landmarks, supporting the local economy.

The district is also home to several of Bhutan’s oldest lhakhangs, including Menkhar, Karphu, Lukchu, Kuenzangling, Goshogpang, Timula, Khochung Lhakhang, and Dungkar Nagtshang, which draw both local and international visitors.

These temples, built by revered Buddhist masters like Guru Chowang, Ratna Lingpa, Pema Lingpa, Khedrup Kuenga Wangpo, and Yongzin Ngagi Wangchuk, are rich in spiritual and historical heritage. 

Despite the potential to attract tourists, the dzongkhag had seen few visitors. That changed during the Covid-19 pandemic, when international travel restrictions pushed locals to explore Lhuentse’s pilgrimage sites, providing a much-needed economic boost to the dzongkhag.

The improvement of the mule track to Singye Dzong from Khoma has enhanced the living standards of the villages along the route. 

Singye Dzong, one of the most sacred sites associated with Guru Rinpoche, is located north of Lhuentse Dzongkhag.  Thousands of pilgrims visit the sacred site every year.

Since the easing of Covid-19 restrictions, the number of visitors has shot up, with about 1,200 pilgrims visiting in 2022, 400 in 2023, and over 1,000 so far this year, according to records from the Khoma gewog administration.

The increase in visitors has benefited local communities of Tsangpo and Khoma, where porter and guide services have become vital sources of income.

In particular, the 12-household Tsangpo community and the four-households of Roelmataeng  highland community have seen their livelihoods improve through these services, alongside traditional livestock farming.

Tsangpo is a day’s walk from Khoma, while Roelmataeng is close to Singye Dzong.Singye Dzong is open for pilgrims for about eight months, from June to November.

Horse Association  

Roelmataeng-Tsangpo Tshogpa, Shacha Wangchuk, said that people’s income has spiked from Nu 20,000 to Nu 150,000 a year.

He attributes this increase to the number of pilgrims, with about 400 to 700 Bhutanese visiting Singye Dzong every season.

Nima Tshering, a 41-year-old from Roelmataeng, said that his income has significantly increased, with earnings reaching Nu 140,000 this season compared to Nu 30,000 last year, particularly due to the influx of visitors during the Drubchhen festival at Singye Dzong.

Formed in 2022, Singye Dzong Horse Association ensures fair distribution of work among members. Each household owns between eight and 16 horses.

Jigme from Roelmataeng said that after the association’s formation, every member received equal opportunities to earn money, as the horses are sent out on a rotation basis.

Singye Dzong is a three-day walk from Khoma village. A pony  costs between Nu 3,500 and Nu 4,500 for a trip to Singye Dzong from Khoma.

Homestay and Kishuthara business bounces back

Homestays and Kishuthara businesses have also rebounded after being severely impacted by the pandemic.

Chimi Yueduen, who runs a homestay in Khoma village, said that more than 100 international tourists have stayed at her homestay since the beginning of the year. “Most of the homestays were fully booked for the entire month during the Drubchhen at Singye Dzong this year.”

Berpa-Khoma Tshogpa, Sonam Dargay, said that each household’s income has increased due to weaving Kishuthara and increase in visitor numbers. “During the pilgrimage season, which lasts from June to November, people earn between Nu 50,000 and Nu 150,000,” he said.

Among the many pilgrimage sites in Lhuentse, Rinchen Bumpa, once overlooked, has recently gained popularity, particularly due to its connection to Guru Rinpoche.

With budget support from the dzongkhag administration, the community built toilets and canopies along the routes. The dzongkhag administration has also improved the mule track, making the three-day trip from Khoma to Singye Dzong more accessible.

Singye Dzong, previously difficult to access, now attracts a growing number of Bhutanese pilgrims, with the number of visitors surging during major events like Drubchhens.

Khoma Gup Tshering Wangdi said that except for maize cultivation, the community has no other source of cash income. “Besides Kishuthara, local pilgrimage has enhanced the livelihoods of the people here.”