That night, as I settled into bed, I was certain the Gesar Lingdro had crowned my pilgrimage to Chumey. Ready to depart the next morning, I felt the quiet triumph of a wanderer who’d unearthed an uncharted spring. Yet when Drungchen Sonam appeared at dawn asking if I wished to accompany the monks to a Tara nye that Tang Rinpoche was consecrating the following day, I heard myself reply: “Sure, why
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