Gelephu—At 8:30 pm on March 28, the lights dimmed. The crowd at Gelephu Town Park switched on their flashlights, the only glow in the evening. From the stage, Sonam Wangchen sang, his voice rising and carrying across the crowd. Cars still moved in the distance, the world around them continuing with its usual energy, but for the people gathered there, the hour belonged to something else.
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