It is 10 in the morning. The Norzin Lam in Thimphu has woken to a new day, but the city’s only library—Jigme Dorji Wangchuck Public Library (JDWPL)—is sleeping, curtain drawn and rusty latch locked.

The officiating librarian, Tshering Phuntsho, opens the library. It is 12.30 p.m. Anyway, visitors come in the late afternoon and evening.

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