A descendant of the family plans to revive the 18th century structure

Lhakpa Quendren

Zhemgang—Located in the remote hamlet of Bjoka, one and half hour from the sleepy town of Panbang in Zhemgang Dzongkhag, the 18th century mansion of Bjoka Khoche (nobility) has weathered the vagaries of time.

The three-storey traditional structure, made primarily from stone and wood, recently gained renewed attention as the set for the horror-comedy film “Sheindrey”. A cultural landmark, the mansion is also a popular local attraction for tourists.

The mansion has 22 rooms spread across three stories

In a few years, this historical monument may once again come alive. Fifty-six-year-old Sherub Jamtsho, a descendant of Bjoka Khoche, and the legal owner of the mansion, plans to return to his ancestral home after his retirement in 2029.

The youngest and only son of three siblings, Sherub Jamtsho is currently the district education officer in Zhemgang. As dictated by tradition in the Kheng region, the youngest son inherits and manages the paternal property.

Sherub Jamtsho plans to restore the mansion, breathing fresh life into this centuries-old structure. 

A major renovation is planned next year, with timber preparations already underway. “I have transported three truckloads of wood while the remaining trees are still being processed in the forest,” Sherub Jamtsho said. “Since astrologically, this year is not a favourable year, the renovation has been scheduled for mid-next year.”

The mansion’s original architectural essence will be preserved with modern amenities subtly integrated. “The plan is to transform it into a homestay or possibly a cultural site or museum in the future,” he said.

The mansion has 22 rooms spread across three stories

In early 2023, a team from the culture department visited the mansion to assess the structures and certify it as a cultural heritage site.

After that, Sherub Jamtsho submitted a request for the design and budget estimation through the dzongkhag administration. “The team assured technical support for the renovation,” he said.

The thatched roofs of the mansion have been replaced with CGI sheets, wooden doors restored, and windows updated. The entrance to the living rooms, kitchens, and shrine has also been modified.

With 22 rooms spread across three stories—some still unfurnished—the interior has remained largely untouched over the years. Several rooms are privately owned by family branches who no longer reside here permanently.

The house originally had three kitchens for different family branches, which is now reduced to two, one of which is occupied by Sherub Jamtsho’s great-uncle. “Three families lived in separate rooms until my father’s generation,” Sherub Jamtsho said.

The family’s descendants, spread across Jaray in Lhuentse, Themdangbi in Mongar, Chemung in Pemagatshel, and Bardo and Shingkhar in Upper Kheng, have assured their support for the renovation.

Sherab Jamtsho’s father, who represented Zhemgang at the first National Assembly, got little time to visit the ancestral home or carry out any renovations. And overtime, it was forgotten.

Having spent much of his schooling and early career in western and eastern regions of the country, Sherub Jamtsho only discovered in a 2012 survey that he is the legal owner of the property.

Bjoka Khoche

The Khoches were noble families of Lower Kheng, renowned for their dominance in regions bordering Assam and Bengal. Their influence extended beyond governance, as they fostered significant trade relationships with neighbouring Indian communities.

During winter months, the Khengpas, along with their livestock—primarily goats and sheep—would migrate to the plains.

Skilled in both warfare and statecraft, the Khengpas earned a reputation for their prowess in battle and governance, contributing to the region’s stability and prominence.

According to local tradition, the Khoches trace their lineage directly to Lhasey Tsangma, the grandson of Tibetan King Thrisong Deutsen. Lhasey Tsangma is believed to have arrived in Bhutan in the 9th century.

The mansion of Bjoka Khoche served as the administration for Khengrig Namsum, with a separate administration in Zhemgang managed by the Dzongpon.

The mansion is believed to have been constructed in the 18th century and later enlarged after earthquake damage. However, due to the lack of written records and varying information from different researchers, the exact date and identity of the people who built the mansion remain unknown.

The mansion showcases a blend of craftsmanship, with one section built by Bhutanese taxpayers using large stone slabs, while the other was later completed with smaller slabs by Assamese taxpayers due to shortage of material.

The Khoche clan’s influence once spanned far beyond Zhemgang. Oral history suggests they ruled parts of Assam and Bengal such as Kokabari, Rangapani, and Gohali, before Bhutan ceded these territories to the British in the 1865 Treaty of Sinchula.

Even after their political power waned, the Khoche chiefs acted as intermediaries, collecting taxes for the Bhutanese government while maintaining a degree of autonomy. Some suggest their dominance ended with the rise of the Choje (religious leaders) in the 17th century.