A community of Bhutanese heritage in India

Jigmi Wangdi

Lepchakha village, situated within the Buxa Tiger Reserve in the foothills south of the border, overlooking the vast plains of West Bengal, is like any typical Bhutanese village, except that it is not one.    

Although the residents of this small hill station follow the culture, language, and traditions of Bhutan, they are, by law, Indian citizens. They have been living on the Indian side of the border for centuries.

The Indians call this place Lepchakha while the Nepalese call it Lhaptsakha and the locals themselves, call it Tashigang.

The community is spread across three villages—Tashigang, Dashigang, and Pasakha—each situated along the Indian border. Each village has its own Lhakhang, a place of worship, rooted in Bhutanese traditions.

Despite being Indian citizens, the Drukpas follow Bhutanese traditions and way of life. They celebrate Bhutanese festivals such as Chunipa Losar, Lomba, and Thruebab, while also observing religious holidays held in Bhutan.

During a visit to Dashigang, a new Lhakhang was being constructed, with villagers gathered for the serto (golden pinnacle) ceremony. Monks performed rituals, prayers were offered, and a simple lunch followed for all in attendance.

So deeply ingrained are  the Bhutanese customs that permeate everyday life here, a visitor might easily forget they were on Indian soil.

Tsenda Gyaltshen, a villager of Dashigang who works as the caretaker of the lhakhang, said their tradition and culture have been passed down through the generations. “Our language, food, and attire are the same as in Bhutan. We have been living this way ever since my parents and grandparents’ time,” he said, with a distinct Ngalop accent.

The community also takes pride in an ancient trail near Dashigang, believed to have been built by the British to facilitate access to Bhutan centuries ago. The trail once led directly to Sinchula, located in Bhutan, and according to locals, it was the route used by Bhutan’s lords to travel to and from India.

On November 4 last year  the community at Tashigang gathered at their lhakhang to celebrate the descending day of Lord Buddha. Tashigang, compared to the other villages, was particularly lively as it has become a major tourist attraction.

Visitors from all parts of India flocked to the village to witness the Drukpas’ unique traditions.

As the Drukpa community prepared food, burned pine leaves, and offered prayers, tourists gained a rare glimpse into the spiritual and cultural practices that have remained unchanged for centuries.

Tourism has become a crucial source of income for the Drukpas here, with several homestays operating in Tashigang.

Phuntsho, a homestay owner, said that tourism has steadily grown since 2012. “Before tourism, we depended on oranges for income, but now the community benefits in various ways. Some run homestays, others have shops, and some work as porters to assist tourists,” he said, donning a traditional Gho.

Phuntsho explained that from September to May, tourism thrives, but during the four-month period when the Buxa Tiger Reserve restricts activities, including jungle safaris, homestay operations are paused.

The Drukpa community cannot trace exactly when the boundary between Bhutan and India was drawn, but some jokingly remark that they were the ones left behind.

Yet, the Drukpas of Lepchakha continue their Bhutanese heritage, preserving their culture and identity across borders.