A story of resettlement, resilience, and co-existence

Chencho Dema

Punakha—Tucked away in the scenic folds of Goenshari gewog, about 33 kilometres north of Khuruthang town in Punakha, lies a small, unassuming village called Balana. Locally, it is referred to as “Gurung Basti”, named after its inhabitants—six Gurung households.

Though Gurung Basti may appear as a cultural anomaly in a region predominantly inhabited by Ngalop communities, the village reflects a compelling story of migration, resettlement, and harmonious coexistence.

The houses in the village—a blend of southern Bhutanese and traditional Bhutanese architectural styles—scatter across terraced paddy fields.

For 51-year-old Hari Ram Gurung, the journey to Balana village began in 2008 when he left Doban in Sarpang in search of a better life. Today, more than 50 Gurungs call Balana home, most of them having migrated two decades ago.

It was Hari Ram Gurung’s late uncle, Birkha Bahadur Gurung, a retired army, who first set foot in Balana in 2002.

Encouraged by a lama friend in Punakha, he purchased fertile land in the village, setting the foundation for what would later become the “Gurung Basti”.

That time, Hari Ram Gurung worked in the fields of Shengosa village, just a few kilometres from Balana. With limited hands to work the fields, his uncle called Hari Ram Gurung to join him.

“My uncle supported us financially to buy land and bring our family together here,” Hari Ram Gurung recalled.

Gradually, the extended family joined him in Balana, building a new life from the ground up.

Hari Ram Gurung’s home sits atop the village, overlooking a patchwork of paddy fields. His parents and sisters live just a stone’s throw away.

Hari Ram Gurung (right) with other residents of Gurung Basti

The village once known as Balana is more commonly known as Gurung Basti by residents of Punakha.

Despite initial language barriers, the Gurung residents have forged a strong bond with their neighbours. Hari Ram Gurung even enrolled in Non-Formal Education classes to learn Dzongkha. “We were welcomed when we first arrived, and we continue to live in harmony,” he said.

The villagers depend on paddy, cardamom, potatoes, and seasonal vegetables, which they sell in markets as far as Gelephu and Tsirang. In winter, they turn to potato farming and mustard oil production.

However, life in Gurung Basti is not without its challenges. The bumpy road connecting the village to Rimchu is in dire need of repair, cutting the villagers off from Punakha during monsoons.

Wild animals also pose a threat. Last year, Hari Ram lost five cows to wild dogs, while his father lost two.

With the electric fence in place, the residents are currently able to keep the monkeys and other animals at bay.

Currently, four generations of Gurungs reside in the village.

Kul Bdr Gurung, 72, who moved to Balana village about 20 years ago, said that he settled here after the closure of schools in Sarpang.

“I bought land and settled here with my family. Everything is fine, except for the language, which I still find difficult to speak, although I can understand a little, “ he said.